Performance And Racing FAQ's

Topic QuickLinks

I lost the instructions that came with my clutch.

  Complete instructions for all ram products are listed on the technical page of this website.

APPLICATION AND PRODUCT VERIFICATION 

What is the best product choice for my car/truck ?

Review the clutch set listings on this website to find the product that matches your horsepower level. If you intend to race the car, select one level higher. If this is an engine, transmission swap you will need to select from our component listings.

Your distributor sold me a 98xxx . Do I have the right clutch ?

Review the clutch set listings on this website to find the product that matches your horsepower level. If you intend to race the car select one level higher.  

Does running slicks effect which clutch I should use?

Yes!  Different clutch combinations offer varying amounts of holding power.  Clutch combinations are engineered to provide optimum holding power and driveability for a given application.  A sticky tire will put more load on the drive line.

CLUTCH OPERATION

My new clutch won’t release, transmission grinds going into reverse, or shifts hard.

The first issue is determining if the clutch will release properly. With the clutch and flywheel out of the vehicle: bolt the clutch assembly ( including the disc ) to the flywheel. Using an arbor press, hydraulic press, or other suitable means, depress the release levers or fingers and check that the disc releases cleanly and will move about between the flywheel and pressure ring. Note the amount of travel required to release the disc.

If the clutch releases properly, the problem lies in the mechanical or hydraulic release system. Refer to the vehicle maintenance manual for  proper inspection and maintenance of the release system, or on older vehicles or racecars, disconnect the cable or linkage from the fork, then check that the  pivot ball is positioned so that the fork  is positioned  perpendicular to the  centerline of the driveline when the release bearing is resting on the release fingers. If necessary adjust the position of the pivot ball to get the fork into the optimum position.  This positioning is critical  for proper release action.

If you are doing an engine, clutch & flywheel, and/or transmission/ bellhousing swap make sure the pivot and fork position or  hydraulic slave travel is correct , and there is adequate additional clearance to keep the bearing off the clutch fingers in the released position.

If you are doing an engine, clutch & flywheel, and/or transmission/ bellhousing swap we are unable to assist you with information concerning the engine, transmission, bellhousing, or aftermarket release system  you may have, and may not be able to supply dimensions or technical data.

My clutch chatters when i engage the clutch in 1^st  or reverse gear..

All high performance clutch discs have friction material with a high coefficient of friction. They are more aggressive on engagement and can cause chatter. Chatter is aggravated by gearing and tire size. For example,  a car with a 3.08 to 1 rear gear will have chatter. This car is essentially in second gear when  pulling off and it will chatter with any clutch. Many factory performance cars  have high gearing to meet emissions and gas mileage requirements that will tend to cause chatter. If you install a performance clutch in a car with less than 3.78 to 1 rear and 2.60 to 1 first gear ratios you probably will experience some clutch chatter .  If you have this problem you may have to change your driving technique to minimize the chatter. Or better, change the rear gear.

I can’t shift the transmission at high rpm.

The clutch itself will not cause a shifting problem. Improper release adjustment, faulty operation , or a transmission problem are probable causes. To test the clutch system, put the car in first gear with the clutch disengaged and bring the engine up to the rpm where the problem occurs.  If the clutch wants to pull or move the car, more release travel is required for the fork or slave cylinder. If there is no tendency to move the car, the problem is in the transmission.

My clutch slips in 3^rd  and 4^th  on the gear change.

Check that the  linkage is properly setup and adjusted and that the release bearing is not riding on the release levers.  If the bearing is adjusted to touch the levers it will unload the clutch and cause it to slip.  If the adjustment is correct, the clutch setup is incorrect and you will need “more clutch” to correct the problem.  

I have a late model Mustang with the cable linkage, and the pedal is extremely stiff, or I have a problem breaking the outer casings of the cable.

These problems can occur when the clutch quadrant is not positioned properly on the shaft under the dash.  There are no 'stops' on this shaft, and if the quadrant does not line up with the cable routing hole in the firewall, the cable pulls at an angle and can cause heavy pedal effort or in extreme cases, breakage of the cable and/or cable housing.  Be sure to sight the position of the quadrant when installing so it lines up with the cable routing hole.

WARRANTY

I only have 700 miles on my replacement set and the release bearing makes noise all the time. My installer wants me to pay him  again to take it out to examine it. Can you help me ?

Go to: warranty information/ determination on the technical page  for complete information on evaluating warranties and warranty handling procedures.

RACE CLUTCHES

I don’t have the instructions for my race clutch.

Go to technical on this website to find installation and setup instructions on all ram products.

  I bought a race car with a ram adjustable clutch in it and i want to put it in another car. Can you give me the starting setup ?

Go to technical on this website to find installation and setup instructions on all ram products.

                             If you need further advice or information :

We need to know: spring color, ring height measurement, counterweight lever or not, disc friction material compound, last SFI date, and general condition. Enter this information  in the information box and completely fill out the e-tech page  found under technical  on this website. Submit the page and we will help you as best we can via e-mail.

CUSTOM CLUTCHES

Can you make a special flywheel, pressure plate, or disc ?

One off products will require  an estimate from engineering. Typically we need to make drawings, write two cnc programs, make tooling, and make two machine setups . This can be an expensive process .

PRESSURE PLATES

  What is the difference between RAM and Centerforce?

  Centerforce clutches rely on centrifugal assist, or additional plate loading as the engine RPM increases, to add holding power to the clutch.  RAM clutches in most cases use either higher static plate loads or more aggressive friction materials to increase the hold.  This is critical because the bulk of a street engine’s torque load in generated at RPMs under 5000; centrifugal assist does not even begin to be a factor until about 6000 RPM…

What do I torque the pressure plate bolts to ?

5/16” cap screws torque to 26 ft# in steel or  22 ft# in aluminum. Red locktite recommended in both materials.

3/8”” cap screws torque to 45 ft# in steel or  33 ft# in aluminum. Red locktite recommended in both materials.

What is the break in procedure for my clutch ?

 There is no break in required.  

How do I adjust the pressure in my adjustable pressure plate?

  DISCS

  I have a RAM 6000 series disc and it’s supposed to be 11 inch but measures 10.5.  Why?

  All 6000 series discs measure undersize.  11 inch discs are 10 5/8 inch, 10.5 inch are 10 ¼ inch.  The reasoning here is that if you were ever to loose a front transmission bearing or a pilot bushing, the disc could run out and catch on the pressure plate, causing catastrophic damage.

  But the pads hang off the inside of the pressure plate.  Is this a problem?

  No, the pad will hang off due to the fact it is a stock production pad.  Wear on this type of disc is so negligible that it will never be a factor.  No loss of holding power will result.

  Which side of the disc faces to the flywheel when I install?

  In 99% of the cases, the disc mounts with the sprung side (the side the hub and retainer are assembled to) facing the transmission.  The flatter side of the disc faces down to the flywheel.  There are a few cases, such as 93-97 Camaro/Firebird where the sprung side of the disc faces the flywheel.  This will usually be apparent due to a deeper recess in the flywheel flange area of the flywheel, or markings on the disc indicating mounting direction.

  Which disc materials are more aggressive for street driving?

  Discs using metallic facings are usually more aggressive on engagement than organic or composites.  Check the clutch disc ‘barometer’ in the RAM catalog for descriptions on each friction material.

  I have a RAM 900 series disc and it is completely worn out on the flywheel side in only a few hundred miles.  What gives?

  RAM 900 series discs were developed and tested using RAM flywheels.  Since introduction of this disc we have discovered material differences in both factory and other manufacturers flywheels that make them incompatible with the 900 series material.  We recommend using 900 series ONLY with a RAM flywheel.

RELEASE BEARINGS

  My release bearing looks to be off center when viewed from the face.  Why?

The bearing you describe is a self aligning release bearing.  The bearing is designed to move about on the collar and find its own center on the pressure plate fingers the first time the clutch is disengaged.  Most late model applications use this style of bearing.

FLYWHEELS

Should I use a steel or lightweight aluminum flywheel?        

Go to clutch university…. Flywheels  on this website to determine what you should use.

How much horsepower will I gain by using a light flywheel?

There is no horsepower in a light flywheel, all of the horsepower is in the engine. The advantage of a lighter flywheel is that it takes less horsepower to accelerate a lighter flywheel so more engine power is available at the drive wheels. Also see: clutch university…. Flywheels.

Why is a RAM flywheel my best choice ?       

Every ram flywheel is: 1. Precision machined in house on the finest CNC  equipment, 2. The friction surface is accurately ground to the ideal rms finish for optimum performance with the clutch disc friction material, 3. Each flywheel is precision balanced to better than factory tolerances , and 4. every flywheel is SFI certified for competition use.

Is my RAM flywheel balanced from the factory?

  All RAM flywheels are factory balanced to zero or the proper imbalance for the engine from the factory.  If your engine was balanced by adding or taking weight from the flywheel, you will need to have the RAM flywheel match balanced to your old one.  Otherwise they are ready to install out of the box.  BE CAREFUL to select the proper flywheel or engine-destroying vibrations could occur!

  Do I have to resurface my flywheel before installing a new clutch?

  YES!  In order for the new clutch disc to properly seat to the flywheel, it should be resurfaced using a flywheel grinding machine.  Do not lathe turn flywheels!  This can cause a taper in the face that will not allow the disc to seat properly.  FAILURE TO SURFACE THE FLYWHEEL CAN NOT ONLY CAUSE PREMATURE FAILURE, IT WILL VOID ANY WARRANTY.

  What is blanchard grinding?

  Blanchard grinding is simply resurfacing the flywheel with a stone cutter that spins opposite the flywheel and leaves a ‘cross hatch’ type pattern on the surface.

  Can I use star washers to install my flywheel?

  RAM recommends using red loctite or similar compounds to lock the flywheel bolts into the crank.  Star washers will tend to eat up the flywheel around the bolt holes and eventually make it difficult to get the bolts in or out of the flywheel.  This is especially true with aluminum flywheels.

  ASSAULT WEAPON

  How do I check my 2 or 3 disc clutch for wear?

  The determining factor is the overall ‘stack height’ of the clutch.  To check this, install all of the parts into the clutch housing and set the cover on but DO NOT BOLT DOWN.  At this point the cover should be sitting up off the shoulder of the mounting studs.  The distance between the top of the mounting stud and the bottom edge of the cover is the stack height.  New clutches ship with a stack height around .110 inch.  The clutch could slip once this gap reduces to around .050 inch.  If you have shim washers in your clutch on the studs, measure the gap with them in place first.  If the stack is at or below .050 inch, you can remove the shims which will restore the stack back to about .110 inch.  Once it wears the next time, it is time for a rebuild.

  My clutch is slipping.  Can I just put a disc pack in and go again?

  You COULD, but this might not address the problem.  The steel plates should all be checked for flatness.  Warped or hot spotted plates will not allow a new disc pack to seat properly.  Check the cover plate to make sure the diaphragm spring (fingers) is tight on the rivets.  Loose springs will cause the clutch to release erratically.  WHEN THE CLUTCH HAS WORN TO THE POINT THAT YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SHIMS, CONSIDER SENDING THE CLUTCH FOR REBUILD.

  What do I use for a flywheel on RAM button style clutches?

  Use an automatic transmission flexplate that matches your tooth count for starter engagement and matches the balance of your engine.  A stock flexplate is acceptable as it is only used to start the engine.

  I have a new Assault clutch and it won’t release.  What could be the problem?

  There are several possibilities: 

1. Make sure you are using a rounded or angular face throwout bearing.  Flat face stock bearings do not push on the finger tips of the clutch and will often cause non release and extremely stiff pedal effort.
2. Check the fork angle in relation to the engine.  Ideally, the fork should be angled to the front of the car when the bearing is just touching the clutch fingers (drivers side pivots only, this is opposite if the fork pivots on the passenger side).  This angle can be adjusted using different length pivot balls, or by making a spacer for the fork bracket.
3. Is the bellhousing properly aligned?  Most aftermarket bellhousings are ‘less than perfect’ when it comes to alignment.  Follow the bellhousing manufacturers instructions to align it to the engine.  IN ADDITION, just because a bellhousing is aligned to the current motor, don’t assume it is correct for any engine.  This varies from motor to motor…
4. Make sure the shim washers are placed on the stands BEFORE the cover is bolted down.

  RAM COUPLER

  What is the maximum car weight for use with a RAM Coupler?

  RAM recommends using the coupler in vehicles under 2600 pounds.  Using the Coupler in heavier cars will result in accelerated wear to the friction lining of the unit. 

  What bearing do I use with the Coupler and how much bearing travel is required to use it?

  Any standard or hydraulic release mechanism may be used provided it has at least ½ inch travel AT THE BEARING, not at the fork.  For internal hydraulic release bearings, look for .700 inch travel.

  My car fits the RAM specifications for the Coupler, but I have problems pulling off with the cone clutch.  What can cause this? 

Several possibilities: 

1. If you are using a transmission with some of the gears removed and starting in 3^rd or 4^th gear, it will be much more difficult to get the car moving than if you have a low gear in the trans.  This is especially critical when you are learning to use the Coupler initially.
2. The Coupler cannot be ‘slipped’ like a regular clutch to get moving.  The pedal should be bumped in and out AT LOW RPM until the car is moving.  If you try and drive it like a regular clutch, the friction cone will wear very quickly.
3. Inadequate travel at the release bearing will not allow for the full range of movement between the clutch portion of the unit and the direct drive.

  I can get the Coupler to pull off, but it just grinds when I try to engage the direct drive.  Why?

  Because the Coupler gears are not synchronized like a transmission, the engine and input speeds must be ‘matched’ in order for the direct drive to engage.  In other words, the engine RPM will need to be falling to match the output speed – once the gear engages jump back on the throttle and go!

  SINGLE IRON

  How do I know when its time to look at a sintered iron clutch versus other RAM products?

  The factors that determine this answer are: 

1. Is your current clutch combination too aggressive?  In other words, do the tires spin excessively off the line or on the gear change?
2. Is the vehicle over 750 horsepower?
3. Is there a need to ‘slip’ the clutch off the line in order for the vehicle to launch cleanly?
4. Are you in a class that greatly limits chassis modifications?

  These are the most important factors to consider.  Sintered clutches tend to be less aggressive on engagement and gear changes, allowing the clutch to slip some rather than spin or shake the tires.

  Why do sintered iron clutches use such a low static pressure?

  The nature of the sintered material is a very high coefficient of friction, or ability to hold and withstand heat.  They simply do not require the higher pressures and are able to tolerate slippage where other friction materials fail.

  When do I use a counterweighted lever versus a standard lever?

  All Long Style clutches inherently apply additional clamp loading as engine RPM increases, whether they are true ‘counterweighted’ clutches or not.  Counterweighted levers allow you to use less static pressure to leave the line, and have more pressure apply as the engine accelerates in RPM.  True counterweighted levers (drilled with a hole to add weight) are used in ‘non-shifting’ applications such as clutchless transmissions, or when the engine RPM will not exceed 6500. 

  I have a counterweighted single iron clutch and when I bring the RPM up on the starting line, the pedal is pushing back and trying to pull the car through the lights at the starting line.  Why?

Your launch RPM is too high.  Because centrifugal is not a linear function, the higher the launch RPM, the centrifugal loading is compounded.  The weights are trying to push back and engage the clutch centrifugally.  This will become evident usually above 7000 RPM.  In order for the sintered iron clutch to ‘slip’ off the line, you must launch at a lower RPM than you are probably used to.

Copyright 1996-2010 RAM Automotive Company All rights reserved.  Feel free to review our privacy policy.